Lighting Ideas
Getting Kitchen Lighting Right
The kitchen is the one room where bad lighting is also a safety problem.
Photo: Christine G. H. Franck · BY 2.0In this article
The kitchen is the one room where bad lighting is also a safety problem. The points below are written in the order we would actually raise them on site, because the order usually matters as much as the content — a decision made two steps too late is often no longer a decision, just a repair. The kitchen is the one room where bad lighting is also a safety problem. None of what follows depends on style or budget tier; it applies whether the room is being done on a tight number or a generous one. What changes with budget is the material, not the sequence of decisions. The kitchen is the one room where bad lighting is also a safety problem. Treat each point as a check rather than a rule — the right answer depends on your room, and the value here is in knowing which question to ask before a decision becomes expensive to reverse. This is written from projects rather than from a general principle, which is why it names specific dimensions and specific failure modes rather than staying at the level of advice. Where your own room differs from the assumption behind a point, the point still applies — just adjust the number. Nothing here requires taking our word for it; each point is the kind of thing you can verify yourself on a site visit or ask a contractor to confirm in writing. That verification is usually the difference between advice that gets followed and advice that gets nodded at and ignored. A few of these points contradict what gets repeated as conventional wisdom. Where that happens we say so directly and explain why, because the conventional version is usually true in general and wrong for the specific case it gets applied to.
It is easy to treat this as a minor decision because it does not show up in a rendered image. In practice it is one of the decisions that determines whether the finished room actually works the way it was intended to, independent of how it looks. None of the points below meaningfully change the budget on their own — they change whether the budget you already have is spent on the right things. Getting them right does not cost more; getting them wrong costs a rework later that was never in the original estimate. Most of what follows needs deciding before the trade it depends on starts, not before the project starts — so there is usually more time to get this right than it first appears, provided the decision does not get skipped until that trade is already on site. We raise this early in every project for the same reason it is worth raising here: it is cheap to decide correctly up front and expensive to correct once the trades that depend on it have moved past it.
Light the counter, not the floor
Ceiling downlights put your own shadow on the worktop. Under-cabinet linear light at the front edge of the wall units is what actually lights the prep surface.
Aim for around 500 lux on the work surface
Roughly double what a living room needs. Chopping and reading labels are detail tasks and they need real output.
Light the sink separately
It is usually under a wall unit or in front of a window, and it is where you spend the most time standing still. A dedicated spot or strip there is worth it.
Choose a high colour rendering index
CRI 90 or above. Under low-CRI light you cannot judge whether meat is cooked or vegetables are fresh, which is a genuine problem.
Keep the hood light useful
Most integrated hood lights are weak. If the hob is a main work zone, add a separate light above it rather than relying on the extractor.
Summary
Key takeaways
The short version, if you read nothing else on this page:
- Light the counter, not the floor
- Aim for around 500 lux on the work surface
- Light the sink separately
- Choose a high colour rendering index
- Keep the hood light useful
Where any of this conflicts with something specific about your building — a low slab height, an odd civil constraint, a society rule — the building wins. Bring it to the conversation rather than designing around an assumption. This article is one piece of a larger project rather than a standalone decision. Where it touches layout, storage or services, it connects to the design categories on this site that carry the full specification — worth reading alongside this one rather than instead of it.
Questions
About lighting ideas
Does this apply to a resale flat as well as new construction?
Yes, with one difference: in a resale flat we verify what is actually behind the wall or ceiling before relying on it, since the original drawing is often no longer accurate to what was built or altered.
How much does getting this right or wrong actually cost?
Usually far less to get right at the drawing stage than to fix after installation. Most of what is covered here is free to change before sign-off and expensive to change after, which is the whole reason it is worth deciding early.
Is this something I can plan myself, or do I need a designer?
You can plan the intent yourself; a designer earns their place in translating it into a drawing the factory and the site can execute without ambiguity, and in catching the version of this that does not suit your specific room.
Does this apply outside a full renovation — say, a single-room refresh?
Yes. Most of what is covered here is scoped to one room or one decision rather than to a whole-home project, and applies just as directly to a smaller scope.
How confident should I be applying this without a site visit?
Confident enough to plan around, not confident enough to finalise a drawing from. Every point here is a starting assumption that a measured survey either confirms or adjusts — treat it as the question to ask, not the final answer.
Where can I see this specified in full for my own room size?
The design category and home-size pages linked below carry the full buildable specification — layout, material, dimension and cost — for the decision covered in this article.
Does this article assume a particular house style?
No — the decision it covers applies before style enters the picture. Whichever of the six palettes the room ends up in, the underlying reasoning here does not change, only the material chosen to answer it.
How was this article actually written?
From a decision made on a real project, then generalised carefully enough to be useful without losing the specificity that makes it worth reading over a general search result.
Can a space Saving be built around an existing bed layout?
Yes — the wardrobe follows the room. What has to be checked first is the door swing, the fan sweep and the switchboard positions, which are the three things that force redesign late.
What internal accessories are actually worth it?
Soft-close drawers, a pull-down rail where the run is above 2.1m, and sensor lighting. Most other accessories look useful in a showroom and are used twice at home.
Is it warranted?
Carcass, hardware and factory finishes carry a lifetime warranty on our standard scope, subject to normal domestic use and the ventilation we specify.
Related
Where this shows up in the design categories
Space Saving
Mirror work and any lacquered glass.
Modular Kitchen
Civil changes: moving a drain line or a chimney duct is a small item that carries a large consequence.
Wardrobe
Height — a floor-to-ceiling wardrobe uses more board and more edge banding per running foot.
Master Bedroom
Flooring, especially where the existing floor comes up.
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